今日のサンライズ!

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おはようございます!

 

南岸低気圧からのうねりがヒットしクローズしていましたがが

 

今日は落ち着きました 頭サイズ

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左側中心に クローズセットちっくなブレイクから、形のいいライトの波

 

ワイドで早めのいい波から ダンパーMIX/

 

潮がいちど引ききるか あげるか オフシュア吹くか

 

何かきっかけが欲しい状況

ちなみに今日の潮回りは中潮

 

干潮は12時

00 >> +15
01 >>> +27
02 >>>>> +50
03 >>>>>>>> +78
04 >>>>>>>>>>> +105
05 >>>>>>>>>>>>> +124
06 >>>>>>>>>>>>>> +132
07 >>>>>>>>>>>>> +126
08 >>>>>>>>>>>> +111
09 >>>>>>>>> +89
10 >>>>>>> +68
11 >>>>>> +54
12 >>>>> +49
13 >>>>>> +57
14 >>>>>>>> +73
15 >>>>>>>>>> +93
16 >>>>>>>>>>>> +113
17 >>>>>>>>>>>>> +126
18 >>>>>>>>>>>>> +129
19 >>>>>>>>>>>> +119
20 >>>>>>>>>> +99
21 >>>>>>>> +74
22 >>>>> +49
23 >>> +30

 

 

 

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水温が8度まで下がりまして。。。。。

 

外気は暖かい今日ですが ヘッドキャップしない人

 

イメージ的には

顔面ひきつり

 

サーボード握る手スジコンチン  血管ムキムキ破断寸前

ドルフィン10発 脳みそくるくるくるリンパ

っって感じでしょうか?

 

暖かいヘッドキャップの装着をオススメします

 

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touchdown-lead

 

 

週末は風も弱く 波も落ち着いてくるので誰でも楽しめるコンディションになりそうです!!

 

 

THOMAS CAMPBELL “SLIDE YOUR BRAINS OUT” SURFING IN GENERAL 1997 – 2012
Foreword by Scott Hulet. Afterword by Ed Templeton.
director of video – Dustin Trayer

Growing up in southern California, artist, photographer and filmmaker Thomas Campbell was raised on the DIY aesthetic of the early 1980s skateboarding culture. Photography tips came from likeminded fellow photographers employed in the surfing press rather than from school, and art history was a matter of osmosis, not academia. In the mid-1990s, Campbell moved to New York and immersed himself in the scene around Alleged Gallery, where he quickly befriended and exhibited among the generation of artists who would star in the landmark 2004 exhibition Beautiful Losers. Campbell began documenting surfing culture in the late 1990s through both photography and film. His first feature-length film, The Seedling, came out in 1999, followed by Sprout in 2004 and The Present in 2009. Campbell’s surfing photography has long been admired among by fellow surfers for its lack of gloss finish; unlike most, he eschews the familiar fish-eye shots or tightly cropped land angles. The first of possibly 10 projected volumes in Um Yeah Press’ surf photo- book series, Slide Your Brains Out compiles work from the past 15 years. Often lo-fi and gritty, other times lush and saturated, Campbell’s compositions—which include portraits and action shots of some of the best surfers in the world—are always surprising and full of emotion, from melancholy to exultation.

hard cover, 6.75 x 9.75 in., 156 pages

released – nov. 2012

 


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